Geiser Grand Hotel provides restful escape, great food in Baker City

The restored Eastern Oregon landmark captures community's deep sense of history

By DAN SHRYOCK
Oregon.com

Many communities throughout Oregon and the nation proudly promote their historic districts. Few, however, rekindle history as the people of Baker City do.

The city's roots run deep, beginning with the Oregon Trail which provided a steady stream of overland immigrants during the mid-1800s. The trail ran nearby on its way north to La Grande and points beyond. With the Powder River running through it, Baker City became an attractive jumping-off point. The discovery of gold in 1861 made the Baker City one of the largest cities in the newly formed state of Oregon.

Much of this history is preserved through local and regional museums. For many, the symbolic epicenter of this effort is the Geiser Grand Hotel, a painstakingly restored 1889 Victorian hotel that served as the hub of a booming late 19th-Century Gold Rush city.

The task of saving the Geiser Grand belonged to Barbara Sidway, who bought the building and in 1993 began the arduous $7 million, five-year process of bringing the landmark back to life. Barbara says the community was initially excited and hopeful yet skeptical about the project.

"That was understandable when you look at the formidable challenges we faced and the years of reconstruction," says Barbara, who continues to own and operate the hotel. "But as we opened the restaurant, then the saloon, then the guestrooms and then the meeting facilities, the community has come to embrace the Geiser Grand.

"Our mayor says that the best bet he ever lost was on us," she adds. "He bet that Geiser couldn't be saved. Now he is perhaps our biggest champion."

Anyone who spends a night in the Geiser Grand or enjoys a meal there also is likely to become a champion as well. It starts with a first step into the Palm Court, the hotel's dining room and historic centerpiece.

With its meticulously constructed stained glass ceiling, indoor palm trees and period furnishings, the room might easily serve as a movie set for an 1890s period piece. The second-floor mezzanine adds the final touch with its cast iron, wrought metal and Honduran mahogany.

Barbara is especially proud of the 23 1930s-era Italian chandeliers and the 100 total crystal chandeliers adorning the hotel.

Guests on the second floor may look down to the Palm Court dining area (above). The stained glass ceiling (left) is a unique Palm Court feature. Oregon.com photos/Dan Shryock

What a Guest Can Expect

The Geiser Grand offers 30 rooms and suites with many luxury amenities, most notably the extremely comfortable beds.

There are the usual hotel amenities - in-room TV/cable, telephone and data port, A/C, VCR/movies. The Geiser Grand is notable because it allows pets.

Then there's the clash of past and present. Rooms are decorated with antiques and crocheted coverlets, providing that turn-of-the-centry feel.

There's nothing antique about the bath areas, from the showers to the lighting. Some rooms and suites feature Jacuzzi tubs. And don't forget those big, comfortable bathrobes.

Back in the Palm Court, a creative menu provides guests selections ranging from pasta, sandwiches and burgers to mesquite-smoked prime rib, steaks, halibut and salmon.

Here are four valuable notes:

- The Palm Court hosts a pasta bar on Wednesday nights. Select your ingredients and type of pasta, then sit back and enjoy one of the best plates this Italian has ever enjoyed.

- There's an omelet bar on Saturday mornings. Much like the pasta bar, build your favorite blend and let the fine chefs bring you the dish to start your day.

- The Geiser Grand features an extensive wine list concentrating on Oregon's superb varietals.

- Here's a personal tip straight from Barbara. Try the trout and eggs for breakfast. It's unbelievably good.

Look Around While You're There

Make sure to wander the hotel and get a feel for the restoration effort. "Local community leaders implored us to come to Baker City and save this jewel of the historic district, which at the time was in imminent threat of a wrecking ball and destined to become a parking lot," says Barbara, whose previous restoration efforts include saving the Oddfellows Building in historic downtown McMinnville.

"The largest problem we faced was the failure of the structural integrity of the building, which happened as a result of decades of neglect and ill-advised modernization and improvement attempts," she says. "Overcoming this problem took two and a half years."

She says the "fun part of the reconstruction" didn't begin the basic structural issues were resolved. From that point on, the goal was to bring out the hotel's original beauty. What couldn't be saved and restored was replicated through research and analysis of historical documents and oral history.

Another Chapter Being Written

Barbara says there's more on the way. "We've purchased the Baker Furniture building (next door) with 15,000 square feet," she says. "This will be a major expansion. We will break through the common wall on the first floor to create a world-class conference facility that will accommodate up to 500 people.

"We'll have a state-of-the-art audio-visual system. Exceptional banquet cuisine and service will be the hallmarks of this wonderful space."

The plans also include 10 more guest suites.

Readers are encouraged to e-mail travel-related questions to us. Selected questions periodically will be answered here. We reserve the right to publish any e-mail submission received.