The Best of Portland's Eccentric Cafes

Discover what Oregonians know - there's nothing like a hot cup and a good seat

By Laura Schulte
For Oregon.com

If cafes are a symbol of the good life, then Portlanders must know how to live. Coffee shops of one type of another seem to occupy nearly every corner in town. Whether mom-and-pop owned or one of the big chains, each java joint offers customers a place to relax, enjoy a book or chat with friends while they sip their favorite mixture of espresso and milk.

And while any opportunity to sit back and savor a good cup of Joe is always a welcome experience, some of the city's most eccentric cafes serve up more than just what is expected.

St. Honore Boulangerie
Start your tour of cafes with the best early morning spot for coffee, conversation and croissants: St. Honore Boulangerie at NW 23rd Place and Thurman Avenue. Just like a bakery in France, this locale is the center of village life, with that "village" being the trendy, Alphabet District.

Coffees are served, as in France, in white porcelain bistro cups, with paper cups only provided if requested. Take a seat at one of the high stools at the counter in front of the huge stone oven and watch bakers form baguettes by hand, and then slide them in to bake.

Got a question? Go ahead and ask the experts - the bakers here welcome the opportunity to discuss their passion with the customers. The attractive cafe space is fringed with geraniums outside and filled with butter-scented warmth inside.

Cafe at Powell's City of Books
Make your way through the Pearl District to Powell's City of Books at 1005 W. Burnside, one of the largest independent bookstores in the country. (Free parking for Powell's customers is available in a lot on NW 10th Avenue between Burnside and Couch St.)

Once inside, follow the maps to find the coolest bookstore cafe in town. On your way, pick up a few titles that catch your eye so you have something to read while you sip your brewed elixir of choice.

If you like a book, buy it. If not, try another - no pressure here! Another bonus: This cafe is run by Portland's own World Cup Coffee & Tea, a local roaster that prides itself on offering grinds grown according to sustainable farming standards.

Perfect for days when you are resigned to being an armchair traveler, flat screen televisions pipe in images of far off lands at Costello's Travel Caffe.

Costello's Travel Caffe
Next make your way across the river to Costello's Travel Caffe at 2222 NE Broadway. This fresh coffeehouse concept will have you recalling that afternoon years ago in … hmm … where was that now - Paris, Vienna, Glasgow, Buenos Aries? While the warm decor and international knickknacks create that an old-world feeling, two flat screen televisions definitely let you know you are someplace completely new.

Carrying video images of some of the most intriguing destinations around the globe, the screens provide windows to the world to inspire your daydreams. Sunday soccer match viewings, international film nights and foreign language conversation evenings sponsored by Costello's provide further access to cultures beyond our own.

The Pied Cow Coffeehouse
If your stay in Portland is blessed with beautiful weather, cross East Burnside to the south and visit to the Pied Cow at 3244 SE Belmont Ave. Located in the hippie-holdover Southeast neighborhood, the cafe is run out of a beautiful old Victorian home.

On sunny days, the side yard is transformed into a Bohemian open-air living room, with lights strung through the trees, oriental rugs strewn about the grass and mismatched vintage chairs and tables forming the seating arrangements.

The menu includes teas, coffee and devilishly delicious desserts, as well as wine and beer, and even bubbler pipes. Just in case you are wondering, the pipes are only for legal stuff!

Moonstruck Chocolate Cafe
If an afternoon mocha is your idea of good coffee, come back across town to the Moonstruck Chocolate Cafe at 526 NW 23rd Ave. Choose from the menu of flavored mochas or, forget the coffee altogether and select a gourmet hot cocoa.

Be sure to indulge in some of Moonstruck's incredibly elegant and sinfully delicious bonbons. Filled with fruit and liqueurs, many of which are produced locally, these confections are to die for. If deciding on just one or two of the luscious chocolates is too difficult, ask for a sampler of truffles to go. The included pamphlet describes the ingredients in each in detail.

Northwest 23rd Sidewalk Cafes
There are those who like to drink coffee, and those who like to be seen drinking coffee. For the town's best people watching, continue down 23rd Avenue. In the few blocks between NW Hoyt and NW Kearny, you'll pass several of the city's most popular sidewalk cafes, each of which attracts its own type of loyal customer.

At Coffee People, the tattooed and pierced set come for the promise of "No Back Talk" and turbo-charged triple espressos. At Starbucks, well-healed motorcyclists come to park their rides in an impressive row and compare biker notes as they sip their au laits. At Torrefazione, a handsome Euro-crowd comes for the perfectly poured cappuccinos served in Italian ceramics. Outdoor tables at several restaurants along the way supply even more faces and fashions to study as your stroll the avenue.

After a long day of touring, why not choose a table, settle back, and enjoy the promenade. And since most of the establishments are open into the late evening hours, you can while away the rest of the day watching the parade of interesting individuals go by.If You Still Have Time
For a change of pace, instead of your usual espresso drink, why not try a cup of tea? The Tao of Tea, at 3430 SE Belmont Ave., has an incredible selection of the finest, handmade teas from around the world. Servers at this teahouse are deeply passionate about their brews. They will gladly explain and demonstrate the traditional ceremony that accompanies drinking each of the teas on their extensive menu.