Tasting and Touring Northern Willamette Valley Wine Country

Day 2

By Cole Danehower
For Oregon.com

If you followed my recommendations so far, you've had at least one tasty day in the northern part of Oregon's Willamette Valley wine country. But there's more to come!

Along with the wineries we already visited (Archery Summit, Domaine Drouhin, Sokol Blosser), there are a host of others to choose from. A second day in the McMinnville/Newberg area can be profitably spent picking up some new winery experiences right where we left off. In my last column we ended visiting Sokol Blosser winery. As you leave Sokol Blosser turn left on Hwy. 99 and head just a few miles north to the village of Dundee.

Argyle
In recent years Dundee has become a small center point for visiting a number of close-by wineries. I suggest beginning at Argyle winery, on your right along Highway 99 at the center of Dundee.

Argyle is simply one of the best and most diversified wineries in Oregon. With well-financed Australian connections, Argyle has gained a reputation for producing outstanding sparkling wines (which are among the most difficult, time consuming and expensive wine styles to produce) . . . and Pinot noir . . . and Chardonnay . . . and Riesling.

If you're starting your day here, it's a great time to sample sparkling wine, so turn off Highway 99 at the Argyle sign and go into the friendly tasting room (it opens at 11 a.m.). Depending on what they have available, you will get to taste a variety of sparkling wines produced on premises from locally grown grapes (remember, this is not "champagne" - that only comes from the Champagne region of France - anywhere else, it is called sparkling wine). Argyle's sparklers are truly among the best in America, so don't miss out on this unusual opportunity to taste some of the finest sparklers around.

But also don't miss out on their excellent still wines (non-sparkling). Argyle makes a series of different Pinot noir and Chardonnay wines with whimsical names like Spirithouse (because of the supposed ghost that inhabits the main building) and Nuthouse (the winery is in a former nut processing facility). Price levels vary depending upon the character of the bottle, but invariably the quality of these well-made wines is unbeatable.

Ponzi Wine Bar
After a visit to Argyle I like to go directly across the street and have an espresso at the Ponzi Wine Bar. This cozy wine/beer and coffee bar has become quite a mecca for Willamette Valley winemakers and it is not uncommon to hear technical wine talk from the people at the bar. But it's also just as common to hear basic questions from a first-time wine tourer. So no matter your level of expertise, the Ponzi Wine Bar is an open and friendly place to stop and sip.

Created by one of Oregon's founding wine families, the Ponzi Wine bar affords you a convenient chance to taste a number of different locally produced wines through their counter-top tasting menu. Often these will include wines from smaller wineries you may not have the chance to visit. Stop in and taste, or have a cheese-and-fruit plate for a light lunch. If you need something more substantial, the Dundee Bistro (also owned by the Ponzi family) adjoins the wine bar and offers excellent lunches and dinners.

Erath Vineyards
Once refreshed, turn right (going south) back on Highway 99 - but be prepared to make an immediate right turn on Ninth Street. Follow this road (it becomes Worden Hill Road) all the way to the top of the hill behind Dundee. Keep going until you see the sign for Erath Vineyards. Follow the signs to the parking lot in front of what looks like someone's home. On the left is the tasting room to this venerable Oregon winery.

Dick Erath, the founder of Erath Vineyards, was one of the true Oregon wine pioneers, having come to this area in the 1960s to plant grapes and make wine. Today, the tasting room at Erath is a popular destination as much for the view as for the wines. Rolling green hills, red earth and verdant vines can be seen all across the landscape as you drive to the winery, and they extend above and behind you as you get out of your car to start your taste of Erath.

Erath Vineyards produces a wide range of wines, from the ubiquitous Pinot noir to far less common varieties like Dolcetto. Sometimes, older vintages are available to taste so it pays to ask for details of what's on offer. The staff is always warm and inviting so this is also a great place to get your winemaking questions answered ... while you sip a Pinot, of course!

After leisurely sampling Erath wines, it is time to move on: We have two more wineries to visit.

Retrace your steps down Worden Hill Road. If the day is clear and sunny, look carefully into the distance and see if you can make out Mount Hood to the northeast. A good place to stop and take a picture is the Maresh Red barn (you can't miss it!) on the right side of Worden Hill Road as you head down toward Dundee. If it is open, you might stop in for a brief taste of their wines as well.

Torii Mor Winery
Continuing down the road, look for Fairview Road on your left. We'll go down this road, following signs first to Torii Mor Winery and then Lange Winery. Beware: The road turns to gravel and feels a bit in the boonies, but don't worry. You're on the right track.

On your right at 18325 NE Fairview Drive is the tasting room for Torii Mor winery (the actual winery is in McMinnville

and not open to the public except by advance appointment). The attractive and leafy (check out the gorgeous Japanese garden in the grounds) tasting room is small but friendly and offers a unique opportunity to taste wines from this tiny-production, hand-crafted source.

Touring Data

Argyle Winery 691 Highway 99W Dundee 503-538-8520 Open daily, 11-5 Closed major holidays

Erath Vineyards 9409 NW Worden Hill Road Dundee 503-538-3318 Open daily, 11-5 Closed major holidays

Torii Mor Winery 18325 NE Fairview Drive Dundee 503-538-2279 Open weekends 12-5. February to April, Friday-Sunday, May through December

Lange Estate Winery & Vineyards 18380 NE Buena Vista Drive Dundee 503-538-6476 Open daily 11-5, except Tuesday when closed. Closed major holidays

Ponzi Wine Bar 100 SW Seventh Street Dundee 503-554-1500

Famous for high-quality and lush Pinot noirs, you might also see if they have their unctuous Pinot blanc wine available for tasting. Their Chardonnay is quite good as well!

By the way, Torii Mor means "gates of the earth" and is a combination of, interestingly enough, Japanese and ancient Scandinavian. It reflects the owners' belief that Pinot noir, more than any other wine grape varietal, is a beautiful "gateway to the earth."

Lange Winery
After Tasting at Torii Mor, get back on Fairview Drive and turn to the right. Continue on and bear to your right until you find yourself on Buena Vista Drive and follow the signs to Lange Winery. Park you car and as you walk to the tasting room, take a moment to linger at the luxurious view of the Willamette Valley that unfolds below you.

Don and Wendy Lange started their winery in 1987 and have been important leaders in quality winegrowing ever since. Today they run their winery with the aid of their engaging and energetic son Jesse ... and a few friendly dogs that are likely to greet you as you walk in.

Like so many local vintners, the Langes specialize in Pinot noir, but at their spacious tasting room you can also sample their other winemaking talents. Be sure to try their excellent Pinot gris (made in two different styles including Oregon's first wood fermented version of Pinot gris) and Riesling wines, as well as other offerings available to taste.

The Lange's represent part of what makes Oregon's wine countries so special. They are a family-run business that values the craft and takes care to produce natural wines that reflect both the commitment of the winemakers and the character of the soil. Unlike some places, where sumptuous faux chateaux predominate, Oregon has few of such showcase operations. Rather - like the Langes - Oregon's focus is on character, quality and small production ... all of which you've had good samples of if you have kept up with my itinerary so far.

But, by now you've probably had enough wine tasting for one day. Even if you feel you're ready for more, I suggest you conserve your energy. There are plenty of other wineries in the neighborhood to visit in future days ... and it is always best not to drive too much while wine tasting (we have been spitting, haven't we??).

For dinner you can easily head back into Dundee or McMinnville.

Cole Danehower publishes the Oregon Wine Report, writes for Northwest Palate magazine, and is a member of the Oregon Wine Advisory Board. He can be contacted at cole@harborside.com.